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wristwatch



A. Lange & Sohne Pour le Merite Watch features a complicated fusée-and-chain transmission. The fusee makes the watch more accurate, much like a tourbillon. And like a tourbillon, it has great chronometric value among collectors.

Precise, Preciser, RICHARD LANGE “Pour le Merite”

The third Lange wristwatch with a fusée-and-chain transmission continues the tradition of observation watches that are fully focused on precise time measurement. This horological rarity with its three-part enamel dial has famous historic forebears.

The pocket chronometer – the timepiece of the scientific elite – has always been a coveted rarity. It dates back to around 1880 at A. Lange & Sohne, when Richard Lange, the company founder’s oldest son and technical director of the family business, was already inspiring the craft of precision watchmaking. Overall, only about 30 of these unusual timepieces were ever made. Now, the chronometer with a fusee-and-chain transmission is experiencing a renaissance, as an exclusive timekeeping instrument for the wrist dedicated to mechanical precision – reduced to this sole purpose, without any further complications. Its name: RICHARD LANGE “Pour le Merite”.

Following the TOURBILLON in the first collection and the TOURBOGRAPH presented in 2005, this RICHARD LANGE model also bears the distinction “Pour le Merite”. At Lange, it is reserved for exceptional complications such as the fusée-and-chain transmission. It refers to the order of merit initiated in 1842 by the eminent explorer Alexander von Humboldt and which is still awarded to great scientists and artists. But this distinction could also be understood as a commendation for the forefathers of Saxony’s precision watchmaking industry. One of them is Richard Lange who enriched watchmaking with numerous inventions, most notably the steel-nickel alloy for balance springs that he patented in 1930. The alloy contains beryllium, making hairsprings thermally stable and resistant to magnetic fields. It is still widely used today for the same purpose.

The RICHARD LANGE “Pour le Merite” is the second member of a watch family dedicated explicitly to greater precision in time measurement. The first watch with the same name, a large and extraordinary three-hand timepiece devoted to the tradition of scientific observation watches, was a role model of accuracy and lucid design. The new model also has a case in platinum or pink gold with a diameter of 40.5 millimetres, perceptibly enhancing legibility. Puristically organised, the radiant white three-part enamel dial features narrow black Roman numerals for the hours and small red Arabic numerals for 15, 30, 45, and 60 minutes. Thirty elaborate processes are needed to produce each of the three subsidiary dials. The result is an immaculate enamel face that sets a brightly contrasted stage for the classic blued-steel hands. An aperture in the dial that could have shown the fusee-and-chain mechanism from the front was deliberately omitted so that nothing would distract the owner from telling the exact time at a glance.

More Effective Than a Tourbillon

Thus, the second RICHARD LANGE also focuses the attention of its owner on the objective of all horological ambitions: the greatest possible degree of precision. It relies on an ingenious construction, a drive based on the chain-and-fusée principle used as early as the 15th century among others by Leonardo da Vinci. In his standard reference book “Watchmakers and Clockmakers of the World”, G.H. Baillie characterised it as follows: “Perhaps no problem in mechanics has ever been solved so simply and so perfectly”. However, it takes the ultimate in know-how and dexterity to craft this intricate mechanism in a size that can be accommodated by a wristwatch, so understandably, it is much rarer today than the tourbillon. At the same time, it is much more effective in a wristwatch because it overcomes the greatest disadvantage of the winding train – the unavoidable loss of torque – by intelligently harnessing the principle of levers.

The fusée-and-chain transmission compensates for the declining spring force, keeping the effective torque constant across the entire power-reserve period. For this purpose, the drive function, usually handled by the mainspring barrel alone, is taken over by two components: the mainspring barrel and the adjacent tapered fusée. The two components are connected by a dainty chain which in the case of the RICHARD LANGE “Pour le Mérite” consists of 636 individual parts. At one end, it is attached to the broad lower end of the fusée and at the other to the exterior of the spring barrel. A slot is milled into the conical surface of the fusée that leads to the narrowest point, much like a spiral path that leads to the summit of a mountain. When the watch is being wound, the chain unreels from the outer wall of the barrel and wraps around the fusée until – if we stick with our metaphor – it arrives at the summit of the mountain. In this state, the radius of the fusée, i.e. the magnitude of its leverage, is small but the torque delivered by the mainspring is large. As the mainspring gradually unwinds, its power diminishes. But as the chain unreels from the fusée and back onto the barrel, the length of its lever- the effective radius of the fusée – increases by the exact same measure as the spring’s torque decreases. The result is constant torque at the fusée’s arbor and therefore constant amplitude of the balance.

A Horological Opus

This complex system can only function flawlessly if three additional precautions are taken. The first one is a system that blocks the winding process just before the mainspring is fully wound and thus prevents the chain from tearing. In this mechanism, the vertical motion of the chain is used to actuate an intricate system of levers that block the ratchet wheel at the right moment. The second precaution is a mechanism that stops the movement before the mainspring is fully relaxed. This function is assumed by a modified power-reserve wheel that controls a stop lever. After exactly 36 hours, the lever drops into a recess in the wheel. Assisted by a spring, the longer arm of the lever moves into the engagement radius of a specially shaped finger seated on the fourth wheel arbor. The arbor is stopped when the two elements make contact. The seconds hand stays at the 12 o’clock position. Finally, the fusée-and-chain transmission needs a construction to ensure that the transmission does not stop while the watch is being wound. A complex planetary gearing inside the fusée preserves the power flow from the fusée to the movement during the winding phase. The most interesting details such as the chain, the blocking mechanism, and the ratchet wheel over the fusee that incorporates the planetary gearing are visible through apertures in the lavishly decorated three-quarter plate.

A further detail illustrates the degree to which the calibre designers pursued their quest for precision: to find the optimised match of the characteristics of the mainspring and of the fusée, the 36-hour working range of the mainspring can be adjusted in the direction of higher or lower torque. This can be done by a service watchmaker with a proprietary Lange tool that engages with a pretensioning ratchet on the mainspring barrel. The setting is locked with a pawl. Located above the three-quarter plate, this mechanism is easily accessible.

The exclusive calibre L044.1 movement is powered by an indexless escapement that beats with 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour and has a power reserve of 36 hours when fully wound. It incorporates a hairspring made in-house, precisely adapted to the oscillation system and the parameters of the movement. In turn, the moment of inertia of the large balance wheel with its 18 inertia and 4 poising screws, all made of solid gold, corresponds exactly to the torque delivered by the fusée. All components of the complex manually wound movement are crafted to the highest Lange quality standards and lavishly decorated. In addition to the balance cock, the separate escape-wheel and fourth-wheel cock are engraved by hand as well. Lange’s master watchmakers also apply lavish decorations on parts of the movement that are not visible. Indeed, the RICHARD LANGE “Pour le Mérite” is not only a technically sophisticated precision timekeeping instrument, it is also a stunningly exquisite horological work of art.



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wristwatch



It was not until my friend Perry gave the site of A Chinese Military Forum where I found some old photos of Shanghai Military watches that I began to collect information about Chinese military watches.

I have a vague memory that Chinese people were proud to own Shanghai watches and bicycles when I was a very little girl. And I am sure, like many Chinese families, there must be an old Shanghai watch stopped at a forgotten corner of my house or my grandfather still wears one but I do not pay attention to. As for Shanghai military watches, I will,I certainly will talk with my great uncle, an old military man since 1947. He must know something about that.The following information is mainly collected from http://www.chinesewristwatch.com/ and other Watch forums as I have very little knowledge about military watches. If you are interested in Vintage Shanghai watches,micmicmor.blogspot.com/ is highly recommended.

Well, according the info collected, the first Chinese Military watch-Shang Hai A623  was made in 1965 by  Shanghai Wristwatch Factory, powered by a movement called 623 which was based on Shanghai 581 movement and Rolex Date/shock resistance watch movement. Shanghai A623 was also the first wristwatch made in China with date function.

As far as I known of, A623 has two versions. The first version features golden carving “??” (Shanghai) on the dial and the second version has black and white “??” (Shanghai) printed on the dial. The date is displayed in red Arabic numerals. Premier Minister

Produced in very small number, A623 was only given to those High Ranking government & military Leaders that then. The first Premier Minister of PRC also had a second-version A623 and worn it until he passed away. That is why A623 also called “Premier Minister Watch.”

In 1969,Shanghai Wristwatch produced the 114 watches with 29 Jewels SS2 and 24 Jewels SS4 movements. The 114 could be divided into three versions according to the case back : the trial verison  with 6 digits series number,the early version with 7 digits and late version with 8 digits serial number. On the dial of the early version 29J 114, it did not has the “Shanghai” logo it. Different than 29J 114, early version of 24J 114 had “Shanghai” logo on the dial and later version 24J 114 had “Torch” logo on the dial and the crown. Also on the rotor of SS2 29J which manufactured in 1967 had engraving “29 zhan, 29?” instead of “29 zuan, 29 ?.” 1970 version of 24J had “???? gunzhu zidong” instead of “??? quanzidong (automatic)” on the rotor.Totally 30,000 pieces 114 was made before the production was stopped in 1977.

In my humble opinion, the 114 military watches carries some clear design features of Rolex sea dweller watches and Blancpain diving watches. But i Particular love those Chinese elements: home-made movements, Chinese characters, Chinese red and many more.

Since wristwatch was regarded as luxury items at that time, only division commanders (or higher ranking officers) were qualified to purchase SS2 and regimental commanders (or higher ranking officers) were allowed to purchase SS4. But not all of the SS2 and SS4 movements were used in military watches. For example, there were SS4H, SS4H-K (19J mechanical watch), SS4B (19J mechanical watch with date), and SS2C (29J Automatic wristwatch with date)..

In 1978, Shanghai watch factory began to produced model 1220 military watches which could be divided in to regular version and military version. Military version had  “?? (military use)” on the dial and was was used in the Third Indochina War

Jinsheng Clock Manufacture Factory was another Chinese Watch-making power that provided special military watches. Capable to produce Diamond band mechanical stop watch, it manufactured special military watch models included  1/100seconds (model 501), 1/50seconds (model 502) and 1/5seconds (model 503) total 10 model series. 1964, the factory supplied MS1S and MS2S dual stop watches to the Navy. In 1968, the factory changed its name to “Shanghai Stopwatch Factory” and successfully manufactured 511-516 special made stop watch models for the Department of Homeland Defense in China.



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